Wire, an amazingly versatile material to manipulate, requires few tools and lots of imagination. Read on to learn about the basic techniques involved in shaping wire, how to use a few essential wire tools and how to create some of the more intricate and beautiful shapes out of wire.
Overview
An ancient folk art form, wirework was probably first practiced by the Egyptians beginning around 3,000 BC. By the mid-nineteenth century this lively folk art flourished with the availability of an impressive range of products from kitchen implements to wire fencing. By the 1920’s wire sculpture introduced this medium to the world of fine art.
Basic Materials
Wire diameter is measured in inches or millimeters as well as in gauges. Gauges range from 0 to around 50; the smaller the number, the thicker the wire. For example, a 16-gauge wire is slightly thinner than a coat hanger, while 30-gauge wire is similar to thread.
Basic types of wire
annealed wire: is a pliable, durable and easy-to-use wire for all of your crafting needs. An example is: dark annealed wire.
armature mesh: is a fun, versatile, flexible aluminum ideal for sculpture, model making and arts and crafts. An example is: WireForm Expandable Mesh made from specially manufactured metals which give it incredible flexibility and strength. Its unique raised diamond strands expand and contract to form three-dimensional shapes.
bead stringing wire: is made from multiple strands of incredibly fine diameter stainless steel wire. Its smooth, kink resistant nylon coating provides excellent abrasion resistance. Tiger Tail, one of the original wires used for bead stringing, actually had an industrial origin. Containing only 3 strands of stainless steel wire, it tends to kink if you’re not careful. Modern bead stringing wires are softer, stronger and more flexible than Tiger Tail, and can be used for most general beading designs. Bead stringing wires, now available in multiple colors to enhance your designs, work well for stringing ceramic, glass, metal, stone beads, seed beads and freshwater pearls. Some examples of bead stringing wires are: Beadalon-49, Beadalon-19 and Beadalon-7. The greater the number of strands, the softer and more flexible the wire is.
beading cord: comes in silk or nylon cord. Nylon cord is less expensive, but not inferior to, silk. In fact, it is stronger, has less stretch and feels very similar to silk. Silk, the traditional stringing material used by beaders for centuries, adds elegance and a natural drape to your designs. Examples of beading cord are: Beadalon’s nylon cord and silk bead cord.
colored copper wire: consists of a copper core covered with a colored polyurethane coating. It has a clear nylon overcoat that resists peeling or chipping despite extensive wire working, twisting or bending. An example of colored copper wire perfect for wire wrapping, wire forming and bead stringing is: Artistic Wire.
enamel-covered wire: is bendable, yet holds its shape. It’s great for jewelry making, floral design and more! Some examples of enamel-covered wire are: Shape It Bead Wire and Beadalon’s ColourCraft.
memory wire: “remembers” its shape and retains its coil form. A rigid, tempered stainless steel wire available in anklet, bracelet, necklace and ring sizes. And it’s corrosion and tarnish resistant. An example is: Remembrance Memory Wire from Beadalon.
Basic Equipment
Pliers are used to bend and shape wire, and usually only the most basic kinds of wire cutters and pliers are needed.
• Round-nose pliers are versatile pliers that are especially good for bending wire into smaller round loops or circles, because the jaw consists of two smooth, slender cones. The diameter of a finished circle is determined by where on the cone the wire is wrapped nearer the base for a larger circle or toward the tip for a tiny circle. Squeeze the jaws together to see how the gap between the two cones tapers, closing at the tip. Find the spot in the gap that matches the wire thickness to choose the appropriate spot for wrapping. Half-round pliers are useful for bending wire into broad curves.
• Flat-nose pliers have a flat smooth surface on the inside of the jaw, making this the tool to use if you want to grip wire without marring it. These pliers are also good for bending right angles into the wire.
• Chain-nose pliers are similar to flat-nose pliers, except the flat part of the jaw is finely serrated for a surer grip. Serrated jaws will mar the wire, so be sure to grip the wire only in areas that will eventually be hidden. Sometimes you will use the serrations intentionally to cut some tooth in a wire for better hold at crossover points and wire wraps.
• Bent-nose pliers slanted, serrated jaws help you work in complicated, hard-to-reach spaces.
• Long-nose pliers serrated jaws have an extra strong grip and provide easy pick up.
• Twisting pliers and wire cutters make tight, consistent spirals with minimal effort. The simple one-pull action and automatic return twists wire quickly and easily into a strand that will not unravel. Wire is cut easily with the wire cutter in the center of the pliers
• Diagonal pliers will easily cut through wire up to 1.6mm.
• Nylon jaw pliers, regular and thin-nosed, are coated with a thin nylon layer and can gently flatten and harden wire without nicking or changing the diameter of the wire. These pliers are also good for removing bends and kinks.
Tip: Other useful pliers
• Parallel or channel-type pliers are useful because the jaws open and close parallel to each other, unlike ordinary pliers. Although the jaws are smooth, they grip well, because they hold along their length rather than at just one point. These pliers are good for straightening bent wire or for bending angles.
• Needle-nose pliers are useful for reaching into difficult places, and are the best kind of pliers for working with chicken wire. The more versatile needle-nose pliers combines a flat jaw with a rounded outer surface that tapers to a point. You can use the nose to open up loops, the jaw for crimping, and the outer surface as a form to shape curves and loops.
Basic Techniques
Wire is a remarkably malleable material. It can be braided, coiled, twisted, wrapped, corded, woven, crocheted, spiraled, filigreed and fashioned into innumerable wonderful shapes.
• Twisting Wire
Twisting two or more wires together adds strength and creates texture. Soft wires such as copper are the easiest to twist. Harder wires such as galvanized wire require more effort and caution. Letting go of the wires prematurely may cause them to spin dangerously out of control.
Wire is most easily twisted using a hand drill. This allows more control over the wire and less twisting. Cut a 5’ to 6’ length of wire, fold it in half, and wrap it around a table leg or doorknob, protecting the base surface with cotton pads if necessary. Place a cup hook in the drill and secure the other ends of wire to the cup hook. While holding the wire taut, slowly turn the drill handle to twist the wire.
Another method to twist wire is to use a wooden coat hanger with a revolving wire hook. Just make sure that the handle is securely attached and will not unscrew. Cut a piece of wire at least three times as long as the required twisted length. The tighter the twist, the more wire you will need. Fold the length of wire in half and loop it around a door handle or other secure point. Wrap the loose ends very firmly three times around the hanger, on either side of the handle. Holding the wire horizontally to get an even twist, step back until the wire is taut and begin rotating the coat hanger.
To keep the texture even, do not relax your grip. The twist should look like a rope. Twist the wire to the desired degree, taking care not to over twist or the wire may snap. Remove the wire from the drill or door handle and cut both ends.
• Basic Anchor Loop
Most shapes in wire craft start with a basic anchor loop. Grip an end of wire between the nose of your round-nose pliers about 1/4″ down from the end of the nose. Squeeze the handles of the pliers and keep a tight grip on the wire. Carefully wind the wire around the nose of the pliers, creating a tight loop. This can be done by either turning the pliers or by pulling the wire around. Pull the loop off the nose of the pliers, then place the looped end between the tips of the pliers and squeeze to flatten out the end.
• Wrapping Wire
When wrapping wire, ideally the core wire should be thicker and harder than the wrapping wire, although two pieces of the same thickness can be used as long as the wrapping wire is soft enough for the job. Copper wire works the best. When cutting the core wire, allow at least 2½” to form the winding loop. Long lengths of soft wire used in wrapping can be unmanageable, so coil the wire first.
Using round-nose pliers, make a loop at the end of the core wire. Attach the wrapping wire to this loop. Insert a pencil or other suitable object into the loop and use it as a winder by rotating it with one hand. While winding, use the thumb and index finger from your other hand to tighten and press wire coils to ensure that the wire is closely wrapped. You can also use flat chain-nose pliers, but perform this step carefully, particularly when using nylon coated copper wire, to avoid damage to the color coating.
• Coils
Coils, a commonly used decorative device, add grace and style while neatening and making safe what would otherwise be sharp ends.
Closed Coils: Using round-nose pliers, make a small loop at the end of the wire. Hold the loop firmly with parallel or channel-type pliers. Use them to bend the wire around until you have a coil of the desired size. Keep adjusting the position of the pliers as you work, being careful not to mar the wire.
Open Coils: Using round-nosed pliers, make a small loop at the end of the wire. Holding the loop in the pliers, place your thumb against the wire and draw the wire across it to form a curve. Use your eye to judge the space left between the rings of the coil. Finally, carefully flatten the coil with parallel (channel-type) pliers.
Flattened Extended Coils: The flattened extended coil is a common structural and decorative device used in wirework. It is a quick and easy way to make the side walls of a container, as well as decorative trim.
Wrap the wire several times around a broomstick or another cylindrical object to make a coil. If using galvanized wire, you will need to brace your thumb firmly against it. After removing the coil from the broomstick, splay out or flatten the loops one by one, holding them firmly between your fingers and thumbs, or flatten them by squeezing a small group of coils with nylon jaw pliers. Keep splaying out or squeezing the loops until the whole coil has been flattened. The loops will now look more oval than round. You can stretch the coil further to open the loops if desired.
Tip: Make a length of dimensional coils by wrapping wire around a dowel. Remove the wire from the dowel when they reach desired length. After removing the coiled wire from the dowel, use nylon jaw pliers to tuck the sharp ends in and to manipulate the coils into any manner of shapes.
Tip: To slightly separate wire coils evenly, slip the blunt edge of a knife between the coils and rotate the knife’s blade to separate the coils.
• Scrollwork or Ribbon Coils
Place the ends of the wire on an anvil or another hard, flat surface; using the flat end of a chasing hammer, hammer the length of wire into a flat ribbon shape. Grasp the end of the wire with round-nose pliers and scroll the wire around the plier’s jaw. Adjust the pliers within the loop and continue scrolling to form the coil. Use nylon jaw pliers if incorporating coil into another wire piece.
• Weaving
Weaving, knitting and lace-making techniques can be employed to make basketry and textile designs. Fine enameled copper wire is especially suitable for weaving as it is soft and pliable, and it comes in a wide range of colors.
Method A: The simplest way to weave is by winding wire over and under struts or spokes. To create struts, cut equal lengths of wire and at their halfway points, or points of intersection, bend back the wires loosely. Holding the wires in one hand, attach a length of wire to the center and start weaving around the wire spokes in an over/under fashion. After going around three times you will need to splice in an additional spoke to get an uneven number so you can establish the over/under pattern. Lay a new spoke next to one that is already in the weaving, and as you continue weaving, include the new rib into the pattern, spreading the spokes in a uniform circle as you go.
Method B: For a more closely woven, tidier finish, weave around an even number of struts by passing the wire over each strut and looping it back around the wire strut to create a smooth, closely woven surface.
Method C: Follow Method B but reverse the weave, this time passing the wire under each strut before looping it back around the wire strut to create ridges in the weave.
• Loop Joins
Loop joins are used for attaching two pieces of wire together, such as for a chain. To make the links of a chain out of wire, you essentially create small figure eights with perpendicular loops.
Begin by bending the end of a piece of wire about 1/4″ at a 90-degree angle with flat-nose pliers and form a small loop with the round-nose pliers. Grasp this loop with the flat-nose pliers and bend the wire at a 90-degree angle. Cut the wire, leaving about 1/4″ length if you measure from the loop. Turn this length into another loop with the round-nose pliers. Make enough figure eight links for the length of chain you want. Join the links by opening and closing the loops with the flat-nose pliers, to keep them round. Be careful that you do not unwind the loops.
• Wire Beads
Twist wire into individual round beads, just as if you were winding a ball of yarn. To make a large wire ball, take one 24″ piece of 18-gauge wire. Make a loop at one end. About 1/2″ below the loop, bend the wire loosely back on itself. Hold onto this part of the wire with the flat-nose pliers. Use your hands to wrap the length of wire around the center post with the loop on it. Continue to wrap the wire, much like the way you would wind a ball of string. If you want an airy ball, wrap loosely. If you want a dense ball, pull the wire tight. Use the flat-nose pliers to help manipulate the wire if needed. The pliers are also useful for holding onto the ball–you will need to keep shifting where you are holding the ball as you wrap it. When the ball is approximately 5/8″ in diameter, or the size you want it to be, thread the end of the wire through the middle of the ball along the center post and out the opposite end. Create a loop on the opposite side of the ball from the first loop.
• Hook and Eye Clasp
For the hook, cut a 6″ piece of wire and bend it against itself tightly, using flat-nose pliers. With the base of the round-nose pliers, form a rounded hook shape about 1/2″ from the folded end, keeping the two pieces of wire side by side. Using the flat-nose pliers, grasp the wire “tails” 3/4″ down from the bend of the hook. Bend one tail at a 90-degree angle forward and the other at a 90-degree angle backward. Using one of the tails, wrap around the two wires toward the hook, creating a tight coil. You will need to hold the two pieces of wire together with the flat-nose pliers while wrapping. Trim away any excess wire. Trim the remaining tail to 1/2″ and create a loop with the round-nose pliers. Use this loop for attaching the chain links together.
For a ring to go with the hook, wrap a short piece of wire measuring about 2″, around the base of the round-nose pliers. Keep working the pliers so that you are creating a large circle coil, about 1/4″ in diameter. You need to create a split ring that has overlapping ends, like a key chain ring. Remove any excess wire and tighten the ring with the flat-nose pliers if needed.
Tip: To reduce the amount of tweaking on the split ring, make three rotations and then trim the ring down so that the ends overlap only once.
• Hardening
Wire hardening is the process of stiffening the wire to strengthen it and lock in its design by manipulating the wire. Several methods can be used, depending on the nature of the design and the type of wire used. Nylon jaw pliers can gently flatten and harden wire without nicking or changing the diameter of the wire. Two sizes of pliers are available: regular and thin-nosed, for tighter places.
Moving the wire gently back and forth several times will result in hardening it. For example, after moving wire loops backwards and forward several times a noticeable stiffening of the wire occurs, locking in the shape of the design.
Another method, hammering, will (1) harden the wire, (2) flatten the wire, (3) flatten the design, and (4) texturize or mark the wire. Hammer with a rubber mallet or the flat or ball peen end of a chasing hammer.
Safety Issues
Because some wires are springy, caution needs to be taken when working with them. Wearing safety glasses is advisable when manipulating long lengths of wire, especially if the wire is under tension. IMPORTANT: Always aim the wire away from your face or other people when cutting! When cutting a small piece of wire, hold the wire in an enclosed area such as a trash bin. Wear gardening gloves to protect your hands when working with chicken wire and other scratchy wire.